Fly stitch
BeginnerFlowers & knots
A V-shaped loop caught with a small tacking stitch. Worked singly it makes petals and leaf veins; in rows it makes ferny branches.
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What it is
Fly stitch is a loop of thread caught at its lowest point by a small straight stitch, so it settles into a V or, with a longer tack, a Y. It is the most adaptable of the looped stitches: the depth of the V, the length of the tack and the spacing between them change it from a leaf vein to a fern to an open filling.
How to work it
- Come up at the top left of the V.
- Go down at the top right, level with where you came up, leaving the thread loose on the surface.
- Come up at the point of the V, with the needle inside the loose loop.
- Pull the loop down until the V is the shape you want.
- Tack it with a small straight stitch over the point — short for a V, longer for a Y.
- To work a row, start the next one where the last tack ended so the shapes nest into a column.
What it is good for
- Leaves: a column of fly stitches down a stem is a fern in about a minute.
- Leaf veins and feather barbs.
- Open filling — spaced out, it gives texture without weight.
- The calyx under a flower, where the V shape is already the right shape.
What goes wrong
- Pulling the loop flat, which turns the V into one straight line.
- Uneven tack lengths in a row — it turns a tidy column into a ragged one.
- Setting the point too deep. Past about two-thirds of the width, the arms cross rather than meet.
By the numbers
- Width of the V
- 4 mmadjustable 2.5 mm – 7 mm
- Spacing along the line
- 5 mmadjustable 3 mm – 14 mm
- Stitches in this example
- 18counted from the drawing above, not estimated
- Floss it would take
- 15 cmworking thread to cut, at 2 strands
A fly stitch line lays spaced V’s at a 4 mm band and 5 mm spacing by default, with the tack running 0.35 of the band. Both are sliders, and the band maximum is set so the arms of the V stay inside the 9 mm real-stitch cap.
Watch it worked
Hand-picked from YouTube. Nothing loads from YouTube until you press play.